FAIR-CT98-9058/9558 Utilisation of hemp seed oil for cosmetic products, in particular skincare products

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Summary Information



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Crops for Pharmaceuticals/Cosmetics : FAIR Area 1.2 - Green Chemicals and Polymers Chain : Pharmaceuticals/Cosmetics : Vegetable Oil/Fat

	Contract No:	FAIR-CT95-0560
	Date Prepared:	February 2000
	Source:	First Annual Progress Report

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First Annual Progress Report Abstract

Objectives

The objective of this project is the optimised use of hemp seed oil in the cosmetics industry by:

• Identification of the best hemp variety for cosmetic purposes
• Identification and adoption of the best oil purification and refining process for cosmetic purposes
• Formulation and production of at least six different cosmetic products with an ideal combination of hemp seed oil, emulsifying agents and perfumes.

Activities

The anticipated work was divided into the following tasks.

Task 1: Cultivation tests in Austria and France

• Scientific small plots testing hemp varieties
• Evaluation of yields of hemp varieties under on farm conditions
• Statistics and analysis for the data obtained
• Workshops

Task 2: Testing optimal refining processes

• Study of classical steps of oil purification
• Testing mild bleaching with special adsorbents mixture and filtration,
• Testing nitrogen stripping and/or vapour stripping
• Evaluation of the membrane purification technology on pilot scale.
• Workshop

Task 3: Chemical analysis of seeds and oils

• Chemical analysis of characteristic components in seeds harvested
• Fatty acid analysis
• Determination in the unsaponifiable matter
• Workshop

Task 4: Formulating and producing cosmetic test products and toxicology

• Catalogue of the needs of the cosmetic industry
• Determining and formulating products with variable minimum- maximum content of hemp seed oil
• Fabrication and test, scenting
• Toxicology and allergy tests
• Workshop

Varieties with the highest seeds yield, the ideal harvesting time and the best suited components have to be identified by agronomic field trials. Impacts of agricultural measures (soil, cultivation methods) have to be explored by on-farm-evaluation of agronomic data in hemp fields. Production-specific measures (combined harvesting, pressing, filtering) have to be explored by test of different types of machinery and technical equipment. Different refining processes are adopted and different formulations of the cosmetic products have been tested. Seeds, oils and the cosmetic products have been analysed.

Results

Only an intermediate and restricted report can be presented. After the prime proposer went bankrupt interest in the project by other SME has been reduced, which in turn has ipacted on the RTD-performers. Seeds, samples and information were not available as expected and so far intermediate results have not been discussed in such a way as to help focus the results on the needs of the cosmetic industry. Hence, the coordinator and the scientific partners are not happy with the situation since a third workshop will be required in order to discuss the intermediate results.

Future Actions

It has to be decided whether SME's should be replaced by others or other steps should be taken to re-forulate this project.The RTD-partners would be able and willing to finish their work according to technical annex. However, without the colaboration of the SME-partners this does not seem to be realistic. Hence, it is suggested that some of the on-going activites are completed, without further payment by the EC.