Abstract

In the last 50 years the basic flax spinning process has not changed significantly. Consequently, the sequence of processing has therefore remained static and inflexible to the market. This is mainly due to inadequate technological knowledge of the raw material, which is still assessed subjectively. Since these assessments cannot be quantified, quantitative relationships between the raw fibre and the end-product cannot be established. As a result further technological developments to improve process efficiency and product quality have been inhibited compared to other textile fibres. The European industry must maintain their prestige status of the quality mark (Master of Linen) from the growing competitiveness of the non-EU countries, particularly from those of Far Eastern Europe and Asia. EU based manufacturers will have to improve their technical knowledge to optimise the spinning and weaving processes by employing advanced technologies as in other textile industries.

However, the problems associated with flax fibre characterisation are considerably more challenging than those encountered in cotton industry . The main objective of cotton processing is to select and grade the material into different qualities for use in specific process lines and products. In contrast, flax fibre has a more complex morphological structure, characterised by bundles of cellulose fibrils. These are cemented together by pectin, hemicellulose and lignin, which have to be removed selectively during retting, chemical processing and wet spinning for various grades of yarn. This is the key to understanding fibre quality and their effect on determining spinning limits and resulting quality of yarn. Loom speeds have increased very significantly in recent years. The greater speeds have reduced the number of looms required to produce a given amount of fabric and therefore significantly increased the cost of a stoppage. The synthetic and man-made fibre yarns as well as cotton, are more suitable for these faster looms and have remained competitive. They are produced b y objectively controlled processes, and their performance is more easily engineered and more predictable. They can weave at greater speeds and efficiencies. Linen has not adapted to the changes as it cannot match the weaving performance of these yarns and it is difficult to ensure consistent performance as it is still produced by a subjective process where control is difficult. More control is required over the combined yarn properties of regularity, strength, friction, etc, and to increase weaving speeds and efficiencies and allow fabric with consistent performance to be produced. Cost saving may also be achieved in working and by minimising the need for humidity and temperature during weaving.

The project aims to achieve the following targets:

• A better use of the European raw material
• Optimisation of the process with respect to quality and costs.
• Minimisation of the environmental impact of the process.

Contacts

Coordinator

• J K DAWSON / Thomas Ferguson & Co. Ltd UNITED KINGDOM

Participant

• Herbert BACHUS / Chemische Fabrik Tübingen GERMANY
• Rudolf KESSLER / Fachhochschule fur Technik und Wirts GERMANY
• Alberto PACCANELLI / Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale S.P.A. Laboratorio di Qualita Reparto Sperimentale e di Ricerca / ITALY
• Silvia OLIVIERI / Tessile Cotoniero e Abbigliamento SpA ITALY
• Shekar SHARMA / The Queen 's University of Belfast Department of Applied Plant Science / UNITED KINGDOM